Saut d’Eau, world’s busiest bathing spot for vodou pilgrims. For more, visit junglesinparis.com.
Directed & Edited by Olivia Wyatt
Saut d’Eau, world’s busiest bathing spot for vodou pilgrims. For more, visit junglesinparis.com.
Directed & Edited by Olivia Wyatt
My friend Rachelle Salnave made this beautiful portrait of a chef from Haiti. Born in Haiti, Top Chef celebrity Ron Duprat talks about his style of cuisine, Haitian food and rebuilding his beloved country through his passion- cooking!
Last updated on February 13th, 2015 by Daniel Noll 27 Comments
Before recently traveling to Haiti, I had little concept of Haitian food. Sure, I had a sense of what it could be: island-informed, African-influenced, of Caribbean character, maybe even a hint of French. As with the country’s language, Haitian food has a sense of the Crèole, that is a blend of influences. Mixed roots and spices, basic yet zippy, simple and grounded by the reality of the tropics and the back-story of its African heritage, yet touched with a hint of French complexity.
Take pikliz (spicy pickled vegetables), breadfruit, bergamot, watercress and even rum-infused power shakes. Throw in Haitian hot chocolate, grilled lobster, plenty of beans, avocados and a dash of hot pepper and you have an eclectic mix that took some sampling and digging to suss out not only the depth of Haitian table, but more importantly the underlying essence and nature of Haitian cuisine.
What was it like to eat everything that passed our eyes on the table and in the street? What was it like to eat in Haiti, the country that makes its home on the western side of the island known as Hispaniola?
We went to find out. Now let’s dig in. Bon apeti!
For us, food offers one of the most enjoyable contexts through which to understand a place. As we seek out certain types of dishes, we find ourselves in new experiences of all sorts. During our travels in Haiti we sampled food that ranged from street food to high end restaurants, and a bit of everything in-between. What you’ll find below is an overview of all that we ate and discovered culinarily while in Haiti. We hope that it may lead you to your own eating adventures.
A rich northern Haiti specialty of chicken cooked in a tomato-based sauce with cashew nuts that you’ll most likely find in and around the town of Cap-Haïtien. Where to get it: Lakou Lakay Cultural Center in the town of Milot near Sans Souci Palace.
Mayi Moulen ak Sòs Pwa, Poul an Sòs (cornmeal with beans and stewed chicken)
Stews are common in Haiti. Served on top of either cornmeal or rice, they are hearty, too. What makes Haitian stews special is the hint of warm sweet spices like clove and star anise. Where to get it: An excellent example of Haitian stew can be had from the street food woman at the end of the alleyway at Atis Rezistans (Grande Rue in Port-au-Prince). A single portion ($2) will be enough to feed two hungry people.
For meat-eaters, griyo is an absolute must-try traditional dish of Haiti. It is most often served with cabbage salad or better yet, spicy pikliz (onions and other vegetables marinated in a spicy vinegar sauce). Where to get it: If you’re going out for a nice dinner, try the griyo at Quartier Latin in Pétionville. For a more low-key meal, order a big plate of griyo at Cinq Coins Restaurant (they sell it by the pound) in Port-au-Prince and side it with a cold beer or two. Perfect to share and enjoy with friends.
Of all the fruits of the sea you can find in Haiti, conch seems to be among the most distinct to appear on restaurant menus. You can usually find it grilled (see below) or in a tomato-based creole sauce. Conch is a must-try if seafood is your thing. Where to get it: Presse Café serves up a good version of conch in creole sauce, as does Quartier Latin.
As seafood lovers, we did a happy dance in Haiti for the availability and freshness of grilled lobster and conch. These are readily available in most coastal areas, but especially along the southern coast in and around Jacmel, Jacmel Cayes and Port Salut. Where to get it: Chez Matante restaurant on Gelée Beach near Les Cayes may take the “heaping portion” award where a $15 mountainous serving of delicious lobster and avocado slices is enough to satiate two people. Another place for delicious grilled seafood (including langoustine) is Vue Sur Mer near Jacmel.
assot is spiced, dried meat that is then fried. You may also have seen this in Mexico or Latin American countries as well, as tasajo. In Haiti, you’ll most often find Tassot Kabrit (goat) or Tassot Vyann (beef) sided with fried plantains. The description defies its tastiness. Where to get it: This was another favorite dish at Lakou Lakay Cultural Center in Milot.
The legim (think legume) is the vegetable stew part. The cornmeal consistency is somewhere between polenta and cream-of-wheat (or cream-of-cornmeal, as it were). Where to get it: A delicious example of this dish can be found in Jacmel, past the airfield, right side on the road if you’re heading in the direction of Marigot. Go early as once they sell out for the day, they close the stand.
A stew of crab and dark-green spinach-like lalo leaves. Rich and hearty. Traditionally, this is a specialty of Artibonite, the Haitian rice producing region. Where to get it: Get thee to the Marché en Fer in Port-au-Prince in the late morning to lunchtime. The woman between the food market and Vodou and crafts market cooks a big tin of it on weekdays.
This is a sort of Louisiana-style gumbo made with okra and mushrooms, sometimes served with a kick of chili peppers. You can find it in some restaurants, but we experienced this dish stewed with chunks of pork and a healthy dose of crab legs (kalalou djon djon ak sirik ak vyann kochon) served atop white rice at a friend’s house. (Sorry, that location is sworn to secrecy.)
So many restaurants and seaside shacks serve grilled fish along the coast. We always asked for additional pikliz to go on top. So good. Where to get it: Our best fish feast was a heaping lunch portion at a simple beach-side stand at Pointe Sable in Port Salut. Great food, cold beers and a fitting view of the sea.
Besides all the meat and seafood, rice, beans and tropical starches rule the table in Haiti. Note that fritay(fried foods) are often paired with spice and vinegar blends like pikliz (see below) to balance what goes into the digestive system.
Pickled cabbage and vegetables (onions, carrots, peppers, etc.), grated or shredded, served in a vinegar base and often dashed with chili peppers. A perfect compliment to fried and heavy foods. We became slightly obsessed with pikliz and were guilty of ordering extra portions of it everywhere we went. If you are sensitive to spice, be sure to taste before topping your plate.
White rice cooked with beans or served with a bean sauce is very common throughout Haiti. Another variation of this includes Diri Blan ak Sos Pwa Noir (white rice and black bean sauce) or rice with a white bean sauce. Depending on the consistency the cook is after, cornmeal is often swapped for rice in these dishes.
While white rice is usually served with a bean sauce topping (see above), diri djon djon is usually served on its own because of the distinct aroma and rich flavor of the jhon jhon mushroom.
The most common approach to the ubiquitous Haitian plantain: fried plantains (bannann peze), which are often sided with any of the main meals mentioned above. Although perhaps not the healthiest option, they are also delicious topped with a heaping spoonful of pikliz. We were admittedly less excited by the boiled plantain option. Where to get it: The best bannann peze was at Vue Sur Mer Restaurant outside of Jacmel.
Definitely worth seeking out. Sometimes you’ll find fried breadfruit mixed together on a plate with fried plantains. The first time this happens, you’ll say, “Man, I didn’t know plantains could be so good.” That, my friend, is breadfruit. The consistency is richer and more distinct than a plantain, and the taste is quite different almost bordering on a starchy version of jackfruit. Good thing is: breadfruit is widely available; it probably ought to be consumed even more than rice given how prevalent it is in the country. Where to get it: Our most memorable was at the sprawling highway-side market at Saint-Louis-du-Sud, where the breadfruit lady topped ours with an ample serving of spicy pikliz. Yum.
When in season, avocado is plentiful and tasty. Get your fill, particularly as a side to various meat dishes and grilled seafoods. Pairs beautifully with a nice, tart pikliz.
We’ve experienced blended watercress dipping sauces (see Tap Tap Haitian Restaurant in Miami Beach), but nothing beats the mind-bending fresh mountain salad at Auberge La Visite in the mountains near Seguin, Haiti. Watercress was fresh-plucked from the ground at the foot of the waterfall we passed on the return from a hike to Pic Cabayo. It’s then tossed with other vegetables and edible flowers, as in the salad pictured above.
Pumpkins and squash are quite common throughout Haiti. You may find pumpkin and squash soup on its own or — you guessed it — stewing in a pot of goat meat and other vegetables.
A hearty favorite in the hills just outside of Port-au-Prince. Trust us, it’s much tastier than it sounds. We sampled this in places like Mare Rouge and Seguin, just outside of Parc National La Visite and Pic la Selle.
Travelers in Haiti can find breakfasts with the usual suspects such as eggs, toast or cereal in hotels. However, if you wish to breakfast like a local, here’s what you might eat.
Particularly as you head south along the coast, you’ll see strings of morning-dried fish hanging on racks. Then they end up on your breakfast table.
I joked with a Haitian friend that Haitian beef liver looked to me like dog food. OK, it was no joke. But as beef livers go, they are tasty for the copious use of spices like cinnamon and dashes of star anise. With this breakfast you likely will not need to eat until dinner — the following day.
Spaghetti for breakfast in Haiti? Yes, spaghetti, the breakfast of Haitian champions. It makes sense when you consider the importance of starting one’s day with a hearty breakfast.
Jus blennde is a staple of the Port-au-Prince night street food scene. These shakes are essentially meal replacements so that people can eat something hearty, but perhaps not as heavy as meat, at night. The version I enjoyed (endured?) was made from approximately 15 ingredients including boiled potato, carrot, manioc (cassava), and breadfruit; banana, papaya, peanuts, sugar, vanilla and almond extracts, evaporated milk, ice, rum and a wedge of la vache qui rit cream cheese for good measure. If Popeye came from Haiti, this is what he would eat before he kicked ass.
Yes, you read that correctly. I could not bring myself to try it, but the idea is apparently a filling, easily digested liquid dinner, based on blending wet spaghetti, tomato flavoring and other goodies. The Godfather is turning over in his grave. Or is that his stomach turning?
A ground corn and cocoa shake specialty hailing from the seaside Haitian town of Les Cayes. Rich, sweet and heavy enough to keep you full for the whole day. If you are seeing a pattern of filling food here, you are beginning to understand the “why” that underlies the historical function of food in Haiti. Where to get it: La Cayenne Restaurant in Les Cayes.
Haitians have a sweet tooth, no two ways about it. It’s not surprising considering the country’s wide production of sugar cane. Here are a few of our favorite desserts and treats that we found across the island.
Haitian peanut butter is all natural. It’s also a revelation. Northern varieties are purportedly six-times blended while those in the south are less smooth at four-times blended. What really sets apart Haitian peanut butter: spice. Yes, spicy peanut butter. You heard me right.
Spicy peanut butter varieties are made when ground peanuts are turned with a scotch bonnet or habanero pepper. After one taste of this, you’ll never look at the possibilities of peanut butter quite the same.
Native to the Haitian town of Petit-Goave, dous makos production looks a kind of taffy production where milk and sugar are boiled in log-fired cauldrons. The signature look of dous makos: the three stripes, beige, brown and pink. Where to get it: You’ll find stands all along the road in Petit-Goave, but the best dous makos we sampled was at Chez Lélène Douce. Lélène’s product is smooth and features hints of coconut and other flavors that set it apart. Also, Lélène’s daughters are adorable.
In Haiti, cassava bread is less moist like bread and more dry like a cracker. The version we bought were stuffed with a not-so-sweet chocolate and paired with Haitian peanut butter. Cassava bread is an acquired taste and one that you come to acquire much faster when you are famished after hiking several miles in the hills.
But the best way to have cassava bread is fresh on the streets of Port-au-Prince with a dose of spicy peanut butter slathered on top. A wonderful — and local — street-side snack.
Just like it sounds, where cashews and sugar cane are turned with ginger for a zip. You can find vendors selling it along the road from Les Cayes to Port-au-Prince, but it’s a specialty of the town of Cavaillon. You can also find brittles around the country made with peanuts, sesame seeds, coconut, almonds and cashews.
If you come across sweet potato cake, give it a shot as it’s made with sweet potatoes, bananas and spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and vanilla. We had a very nice sweet potato cake, served in warm glaze at the restaurant at Habitation Jouissant in Cap-Haïtien.
Haitian hot chocolate is a terrific experience, particularly if you endeavor to buy the relatively inexpensive ingredients and requisite tools at the Marché en Fer in Port-au-Prince. It’s a fun process and enjoyable way to engage with different vendors at the market.
Haitian hot chocolate production begins by shaving a ball of pure chocolate with a Haitian grater — that is, against the holed and hollowed out side of a tomato can. Then simmer cinnamon sticks, star anise, nutmeg and fèy bwadin leaves in water (we’ve been told that whole nutmeg or mace is good as well). Add your ground chocolate, some sugar, some vanilla essence a tiny pinch of salt, and thicken it with some evaporated milk (don’t skimp on this). Shave some of the rind of a green bergamot (a shriveled, pungent lime-like citrus fruit) for the final touch. Voilà! Not your average hot chocolate.
Learning to make Haitian hot chocolate — then consuming the fruits of our labors — in the hills above Port-au-Prince was one of our favorite memories of our time in Haiti.
The history of coffee in Haiti, including its near disappearance as an industry, is a shame. Haitian coffee is quite good and in terms of flavor, its Arabica beans can hold their own against competing Central American and African counterparts. Of the major brands available in supermarkets, check out Rebo or better yet, Selecto. If you really wish to go off the beaten path, try the local bean at Fondation Seguin grown in the hills above Port-au-Prince where they are trying to train local farmers in coffee production.
Given the prevalence of sugar cane in Haiti, it probably comes as no surprise that rum is the national spirit of choice. Although Haiti makes several types of rum, Barbancourt is the national standard dark rum that is available in a number of grades — most notably 3-star, a perfectly drinkable 4-year aged or 5-star, a perfectly smooth one-part spicy, another-part sweet 8-year aged. Although we rarely drink rum straight, we found ourselves doing this throughout our travels in Haiti. It’s that good.
And it’s no surprise that rum cocktails are everywhere you go in Haiti. Although rum juice punch is everywhere, our favorite is a rum sour with lime juice, sugar syrup, a dash of bitters or cinnamon, lemon or orange rind and often a cherry. We prefer it served in a plain, rather than sugar-encrusted, glass.
An unrefined spirit similar to white rum, kleren is distilled from cane sugar. We visited a family-run klerenmanufacturer near Cap-Haïtien in northern Haiti to witness the process from start — pressing the sugar cane to get juice — to its multi-distillation chamber finish. The resulting white rum used to be called “guildive” as it was considered so strong that it would “kill the devil” when you drank it.
On the streets of Port-au-Prince, you’ll find colorful flavored or infused kleren concoctions. Think “street rum pharmacy” whose outputs feature dubious medicinal qualities, look a little like kerosene, and quite honestly taste a little like it too.
No trip to Haiti would be complete without drinking a cold Prestige on the beach. Prestige, a relatively heavy American-style lager, is the ubiquitous Haitian beer of choice. For various reasons, including the climate and the brew itself, it’s best served very cold. You may be able to find other beers in Haiti, including various lighter beers and malts, but Prestige is the most consistent.
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A huge thanks to Jean Cyril Pressoir, our G Adventures CEO (guide) in Haiti. Cyril humored us and our desire for Haitian street food at just about every turn, shared his favorite spots and never tired of our endless questions about his country’s cuisine.
(Source) http://uncorneredmarket.com/haitian-food/
This is an interesting documentary about birth of Vodou in Haiti.
Sunday at the National Palace, the President Michel Martelly, in the presence of Dithny Joan Raton, Minister of Culture also Honorary President of the Carnival, of Stéphanie Balmir Villedrouin, Minister of Tourism and Creative Industries, of Gonzague Day, departmental Delegate West, members of the Carnival Committee, designers and Haitian stylists who participated in the realization of costumes, of Queens and Kings and many guests, proceeded with the opening of the National Carnival 2015.
The ceremony was an opportunity for the Minister Raton, to congratulate the Head of State for his commitment and dedication in the organization of the biggest cultural event of Haiti "you never step back, front any effort so that is realized successfully the course of the most popular cultural festival, and tourist in the country, thank you Mr. President," adding for creative artists "[...] We will not fail in our duty to honor the work that of stylists, the costume of Queens and Kings which during the three fat days, will make us dream [...] For the allegorical floats themselves, this is an unprecedented model, we take the opportunity to congratulate the builders of the latter."
The President Martelly thanked the organizers of the Carnival, for the big work done and took the opportunity to urge revelers to cultivate the spirit of solidarity during this period of festivity, noting that the organization of the largest cultural festival of Haiti, "Nou tout se Ayiti" by putting together to enhance the wealth and expose the talents of our artists.
"The Carnival 2015, I launch today with a lot of emotions, with much vibration reminds us that there is no Haiti without Haitians. It comes to make us think how important it is that every Haitian adds its contribution in Haiti construction we dream of. It also comes to makes us understand that Haiti is all of us and we are all Haiti. The theme of the carnival 'Nou tout se Ayiti', invite us veryone to get their hands, even if we do not all think the same way; to put hand so that we can put Haiti ahead and showcase what the Haitians do, so that we can send a beautiful image and positive signals, which can attract tourists and investment in the country [...]"
"The carnival has arrived, it's time to take your pleasure 'Tèt Kale nan Tèt-Kolé' to have fun in order, in the discipline, without violence, so that all the people who came to celebrate, may return home without problems [...] we take the opportunity to encourage the national police to take all measures to have good security and effective emergency response service throughout the course of the carnival [...]
This year we want, and we take all steps to ensure that the Carnival to be successful, but to make this a reality, we have to agree so that this great event, which creates a lot of economic activity in the country is going well."
Note that during the three fat days of Carnival, 28 young queens will scroll on the course, among them on the chariot of the Presidency, Miss Wadley Belans, the First Queen will represent Nippes and John Pierre, the first King will represent the North Department.
This Sunday, in a few hours will begin on National Carnival 2015, on the theme "Nou tout se Ayiti", for the first time in Port-au-Prince under the Martelly Presidency. Recall that the previous three years, the National Carnival was decentralized in three provincial cities: Cayes (2012), in Cap-Haitien (2013) and Gonaïves (2014).
Saturday in the enchanting setting of the Ritz Kinam, on the occasion of their traditional ball, the queens and kings of Carnival, in a beautiful cultural performance of dance and music, have received numerous personalities from to diverse backgrounds, government officials, parliamentarians and diplomats.
Dithny Joan Raton, Minister of Culture and Honorary President of the National Carnival Committee was very satisfied, everything is "ready" and the Champ-de-Mars is ready to welcome for 3 days, from February 15 to 17, hundreds of thousands of Haitians across the country and visitors from foreigners, who are about to experience the magic of the carnival festivities in the Champ-de-Mars, the largest cultural event in Haiti.
125 disguised bands will participate in the parade (50% less than last year).
16 musical groups : Djakout, T-Vice, Carimi, Kreyòl La, Barikad Crew, Rockfam, T-Mickey, Vwadèzil, King Posse, Boukman Eksperyans, Le Konpa, Deng One, K-Zino, Anbyans, Team Lòbèy, Brother Posse and Bèl Plezo.
More than 1,200 police officers will be mobilized in the area of the Champ de Mars and the surrounding area during the three fat days, to ensure the safety of revelers http://www.haitilibre.com/en/news-13182-haiti-carnival-2015-simulation-of-clashes-of-panic.html
The device for medical emergencies, set up by the organizing committee of the carnival, includes 11 first aid stations, 4 advanced medical posts and 6 hospitals and referral health center. Three other reference community hospitals are retained for road accidents.
Furthermore, the Junior Chamber International (JCI) Women, organizes an awareness campaign in favor of women and girls. Messages will be disseminated through the media and social networks, to bring women to be cautious during the carnival. Sensitization banners were placed in particular in Petionville, Delmas and downtown Port-au-Prince. During the foie 3 days, twenty members of JCI Women, will present at the Champ-de-Mars to give information against violence and distribute condoms to revelers particularly women, indicated Kidsy Deschineau, Member of the JCI who urged women and girls not to go out with unknown and monitor their consumption.
UPDATE 2:17 PM :
The National Carnival Organizing Committee informs the general population that the carnival festivities during the three fat days, will begin at 5:00 p.m. and will end the next day at 5:00 a.m.
The artistic show starts at 5:00 pm in the afternoon and the first music groups will be present on the course around 7:30 pm
The Committee relies on the cooperation of all participants and want to wish everyone a Happy Carnival 2015.
Remember that if you can not get to the National Carnival of Port-au-Prince, visit www.HaitiLibre.com to follow as every year, on 15, Monday 16 and Tuesday 17, the broadcast of the parade and festivities.
HaitiLibre wish you all a happy Carnivall ! 'Nou tout se Ayiti'
Official trailer for the documentary, Lift Up.
Available online Jan. 12, 2012
The film follows two brothers as they return to their native Haiti to pay tribute to their late grandfather, and to all those that passed away in the January 12th earthquake.
Directed by Huguens Jean & Philip Knowlton. Produced by Andrew Bly at The Molecule/Covalent Productions.
For more info, visit liftupmovie.com
or follow us @ facebook.com/LiftUpMovie
This is really beautiful footage!!!!!! Nicely put together.
Achantè is an atmospheric portrait of Haitian Vodou. It is a collaborative project between a small international production team and four Vodou communities in the South of Haiti. Directed by Emily McMehen and produced by Geoffrey Sautner and Emily McMehen, with an original score by Nick Zammuto.
please contact emily@mazibel.com with any questions or comments!
for a long synopsis, and full credits, please visit mazibel.com/achante/
This is a year old but interesting.
In the aftermath of the catastrophic earthquake, Tim and Will enter Port-Au-Prince, Haiti. Looking for a miracle amidst the tragedy and destruction they both witness the resiliency of the Haitian people and capture the story of life and death. 7 Days in Haiti: Part One, Two and Three is coming soon to TBN.
This is a nice documentary about a beautiful religion.
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Everyone from Pittsburgh should find this funny....